The Most Sought-After Watch Brands
The world of luxury watches is built on heritage, precision engineering, and enduring design. Whether you have inherited a timepiece, collected watches for years, or simply discovered an interesting watch in a drawer, understanding which brands carry the most value is essential. Here are the names that consistently command the highest prices on the pre-owned market.
Rolex
No discussion of valuable watches can begin anywhere other than Rolex. Founded in London in 1905 and later headquartered in Geneva, Rolex is the most recognised luxury watch brand in the world. Their combination of solid build quality, iconic design, and careful supply management has created extraordinary demand in the pre-owned market.
Particularly sought-after models include the Submariner (the quintessential diver's watch), the Daytona (a chronograph made legendary by its association with Paul Newman), the GMT-Master II (originally designed for Pan Am pilots), and the Datejust (the archetypal dress watch). Vintage Rolex models from the 1950s through the 1980s can command extraordinary premiums, especially with original dials, hands, and bezels.
Even a standard, modern Rolex in good condition typically sells for at or above its original retail price, a remarkable characteristic shared by very few consumer goods. If you own a Rolex and are considering selling, our dedicated guide on how to get the best price for your Rolex in Bournemouth provides detailed strategies for maximising your return.
Omega
Omega holds a special place in horological history. The Speedmaster, famously worn during the Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969, earned the nickname "Moonwatch" and remains one of the most collectible chronographs ever made. The Seamaster line, boosted by its association with James Bond films since 1995, is equally iconic.
Omega offers exceptional quality at a lower price point than Rolex, making it an excellent entry point for collectors. Vintage Omega pieces from the 1940s through the 1970s, particularly manual-wind Seamasters and early Speedmasters with calibre 321 movements, are increasingly sought after.
Cartier
Cartier brings the prestige of one of the world's most famous jewellery houses to the watchmaking world. The Tank, designed in 1917 and inspired by the geometry of military tanks, is one of the most influential watch designs in history. The Santos, created in 1904 for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is widely regarded as the first modern wristwatch.
Cartier watches tend to be valued as much for their design lineage and brand cachet as for their mechanical sophistication. Vintage Cartier pieces, particularly those from the mid-twentieth century, can achieve impressive prices at auction.
Patek Philippe
Often described as the most prestigious watchmaker in the world, Patek Philippe occupies the absolute summit of horology. Their motto, "You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation," speaks to the brand's extraordinary longevity and desirability.
The Nautilus (designed by Gérald Genta in 1976) has become one of the most coveted watches on earth, with waiting lists stretching years even at retail. The Calatrava represents dress-watch perfection, while complicated models such as the Perpetual Calendar and Grand Complications can fetch six or seven figures. Patek Philippe watches typically appreciate over time, making them genuine investment pieces.
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet is best known for the Royal Oak, another Gérald Genta design that revolutionised the industry when it launched in 1972 as the world's first luxury sports watch in stainless steel. The octagonal bezel and "tapisserie" dial are instantly recognisable.
The Royal Oak Offshore, introduced in 1993, expanded the concept with a larger, bolder aesthetic that appeals to modern collectors. Like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet produces in limited quantities, and demand consistently outstrips supply. Pre-owned Royal Oaks regularly sell above retail price.
Breitling
Breitling has built its reputation on aviation chronographs. The Navitimer, launched in 1952, features an integrated slide rule bezel that was genuinely used by pilots for in-flight calculations. The Superocean offers a capable and distinctive dive watch, while the Chronomat bridges the gap between sport and dress wear.
Breitling watches are typically more accessible than the "holy trinity" (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin) and offer excellent value in the pre-owned market. Vintage Breitlings, particularly early Navitimers with Venus 178 movements, are increasingly collectible.
What Makes a Watch Valuable
Understanding what drives watch values will help you assess whether your timepiece might be worth more than you expect.
Brand Reputation
As the profiles above illustrate, the brand name on the dial is the single biggest factor in determining a watch's value. Certain brands have decades (or centuries) of heritage, proven quality, and cultural cachet that others simply cannot replicate. Within each brand, certain model families like the Rolex Submariner, Omega Speedmaster, and Patek Nautilus carry additional premium.
Condition
The condition of a watch has a dramatic effect on its value. Collectors and buyers assess:
- Case condition: scratches, dents, and signs of polishing (excessive polishing can reduce value by removing original finishing)
- Dial condition: original dials without retouching or repainting are highly prized. "Tropical" dials (where the colour has changed naturally over decades) can actually increase value
- Movement condition: a well-maintained, regularly serviced movement that runs accurately and is free from replacement parts
- Crystal: original crystals (particularly vintage acrylic crystals) are preferred by collectors
Completeness: Box and Papers
A watch accompanied by its original box, papers (warranty card, instruction manual), and purchase receipt is worth significantly more than the same watch without them. In the collector market, "full set" watches can command a 20-40% premium over equivalent watches without documentation. Our in-depth guide on why box, papers, and service history matter when selling a luxury watch covers this topic comprehensively.
If you have the original packaging, keep it safe. Even an empty box for a desirable model has value.
Rarity
Limited-edition models, discontinued references, and watches produced in small numbers naturally command higher prices. Rarity can also be created by unusual dial variants, special order features, or historical circumstances (such as "transitional" models produced during a reference change).
Provenance
A documented ownership history can add substantial value, particularly if the watch was owned by someone notable or was associated with a significant event. Even a clear chain of ownership from a single family can provide reassurance about authenticity and care. Our guide on provenance and how story adds value to antique pieces explores this principle in detail.
How Watch Values Have Changed
The luxury watch market has undergone remarkable shifts in recent years. The period from 2020 to 2022 saw unprecedented price increases, driven by a combination of pandemic-era demand, social media interest, and speculative investment. While the market corrected somewhat in 2023 and 2024, prices for the most desirable brands and models remain well above historical averages.
Appreciation vs Depreciation
Not all luxury watches appreciate in value. As a general rule:
- Strong appreciators: Rolex (most models), Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Omega Speedmaster (certain references)
- Value holders: Cartier, Tudor, Grand Seiko, IWC
- Typical depreciators: Fashion watches, entry-level Swiss brands, quartz luxury watches
The key insight is that watches from the top tier of brands, particularly in popular model families, have historically been excellent stores of value. However, the market is not guaranteed, and buying a watch purely as an investment carries risk.
The Vintage Premium
Vintage watches (typically defined as 25 years or older) have seen particularly strong demand. Collectors appreciate the history, craftsmanship, and character of older pieces. Vintage Rolex sport models, early Omega Speedmasters, and classic Cartier designs have all seen significant price appreciation over the past decade. Our vintage watch valuation guide explains how to assess whether your older timepiece might be worth more than you expect.
Keep in mind that "vintage" does not automatically mean "valuable." A vintage watch from an obscure brand with a basic movement may be worth relatively little. The combination of a respected brand, interesting reference, and good original condition is what creates genuine vintage value.
Gold and Precious Metal Cases
Watches in gold (yellow, white, or rose) or platinum cases carry additional intrinsic value through their precious metal content. Even if the watch brand itself is not in the top tier, a solid gold case adds meaningful value based on weight and purity — see our guide on how to value your gold jewellery for the fundamentals. This is an important consideration if you have inherited a gold watch; its value may be higher than you expect. Our inherited jewellery guide helps families navigate these decisions with sensitivity.
Bi-metal watches (typically steel and gold, known as "two-tone") also carry a premium over all-steel equivalents, though less than full gold models.
Signs Your Watch May Be Valuable
Many valuable watches are discovered in drawers, inherited from relatives, or purchased years ago without awareness of their current market value. Here are some signs that your watch may be worth a professional valuation.
It Bears a Prestigious Brand Name
If the dial reads Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, or Breitling, you should absolutely seek a professional valuation. Even lesser-known Swiss brands such as Longines, Zenith, and Girard-Perregaux can carry surprising value, particularly for vintage pieces.
It Was Inherited or Is Very Old
Watches inherited from parents or grandparents, especially those dating from the 1940s through the 1980s, often fall into the "vintage" category that collectors prize. Even if the watch does not work, it may have significant value.
It Has a Mechanical Movement
If the watch ticks with a sweeping second hand (rather than a quartz "tick-tick-tick") or if it needs winding, it likely has a mechanical movement. Mechanical watches are generally more valued by collectors than quartz watches, particularly those from respected Swiss manufacturers.
You Can See a Serial Number
Most quality watches have a serial number engraved on the case back or between the lugs (where the strap attaches). This number can be used to date the watch, verify its authenticity, and research its specific reference and market value.
The Case Feels Heavy and Well-Made
Quality watches are built from solid materials like stainless steel, gold, and platinum, and have a reassuring heft. If a watch feels substantial and well-constructed, it is more likely to be a quality timepiece worth investigating.
It Has Special Features
Watches with complications beyond simple timekeeping, such as a chronograph (stopwatch function), a date display, a moon phase indicator, or a rotating bezel, tend to be more valuable. The more complex the mechanism, the more skilled the watchmaking required, and the higher the value.
Look for additional subdials on the face, extra pushers (buttons) on the side of the case, or unusual displays in the dial. These are all signs of a more complicated, and potentially more valuable, movement.
The Bracelet or Strap Is Original
An original bracelet (particularly a metal bracelet from the same manufacturer) adds considerable value. Many vintage watches have had their bracelets replaced over the years, and finding one with its original bracelet intact is increasingly rare. Check the clasp for brand markings and serial numbers that match the watch.
How to Get Your Watch Valued
If you suspect your watch may be valuable, a professional in-person valuation is by far the best approach.
Professional In-Person Valuation
A specialist watch buyer or valuer will examine the watch in person, opening the case back to inspect the movement, checking serial and reference numbers, and assessing condition in detail. This hands-on approach is far more accurate than any photograph-based estimate.
At South Coast Jewellers, we bring our expertise directly to you through our free home-visit valuation service. With over two decades of specialist experience and enhanced DBS-checked staff, our valuers have extensive knowledge of luxury watch brands and current market prices, and we carry the specialist tools needed to assess your timepiece properly. Our expertise goes beyond simply assessing a watch's age — we recognise the specific model, reference, and condition premiums that determine true market value.
Online Estimates
Several websites offer rough estimates based on photographs and descriptions. While these can give you a general idea of value, they cannot assess condition, movement integrity, or authenticity with any certainty. Online estimates should be treated as a starting point, not a definitive valuation.
Auction House Appraisals
Major auction houses such as Bonhams, Fellows, and Christie's offer valuation days for watches. This can be worthwhile for exceptionally rare or high-value pieces. However, auction houses charge seller's fees (typically 15-25% plus VAT) and there is no guarantee of sale.
Selling Your Luxury Watch
When you have decided to sell, choosing the right route matters.
What to Expect from South Coast Jewellers
Our process is designed to be transparent, fair, and convenient:
- Contact us to arrange a home visit at your convenience
- We assess your watch by examining the case, dial, movement, and serial numbers, and checking current market comparables
- We explain our offer with a valuation based on brand, model, condition, completeness, and current market prices
- You decide: accept and receive immediate payment, or take time to consider. There is never any pressure or obligation
We buy watches from all the major brands mentioned in this guide, as well as many others. Whether your watch is a vintage Omega your father wore, a Rolex you received as a retirement gift, or a Cartier you no longer wear, we would be glad to provide a professional valuation. For a detailed comparison of what to expect from the top brands, see our Rolex, Omega, Breitling, and TAG Heuer comparison guide. We pay immediately by bank transfer or cash — there is no waiting for payment.
Tips for Selling
- Gather everything: box, papers, spare links, receipts, and service history all add value
- Do not attempt repairs: amateur repairs can damage a watch and reduce its value. Let the buyer factor in any service requirements
- Do not polish the case: collectors prefer original condition. Over-polishing removes metal and can destroy original finishing
- Know your model: a quick search for the reference number (found on the case back or between the lugs) will give you an idea of market value
- Be honest about condition: disclose any known issues, repairs, or replacement parts. Transparency builds trust and avoids surprises during inspection
- Do not remove the case back yourself: opening a watch case without proper tools risks damage to the movement, gaskets, and water resistance. Leave this to the professional valuer
Watches We Buy
At South Coast Jewellers, we purchase luxury watches from a wide range of brands, including but not limited to:
- Rolex: Submariner, Daytona, GMT-Master, Datejust, Day-Date, Explorer, Sea-Dweller, Yacht-Master
- Omega: Speedmaster, Seamaster, Constellation, De Ville
- Cartier: Tank, Santos, Ballon Bleu, Pasha
- Patek Philippe: Nautilus, Calatrava, Aquanaut, Grand Complications
- Audemars Piguet: Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore
- Breitling: Navitimer, Superocean, Chronomat, Avenger
- Other prestige brands: TAG Heuer, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Zenith, Longines, Tudor, and more
Whether your watch is a modern piece in mint condition or a vintage timepiece that has not run for years, we are interested. Non-working watches can still carry significant value, and our valuation takes condition into account fairly.
If you have a luxury watch you would like valued, get in touch with South Coast Jewellers to arrange a free, no-obligation home-visit valuation anywhere across Bournemouth, Poole, Southampton, Portsmouth, Winchester, or the wider Dorset and Hampshire area. Our experts will assess your timepiece professionally and make a fair offer based on current market conditions. Whether you want to sell a Rolex, sell an Omega, or have any other quality brand valued, we would love to help. Learn more about selling your luxury watch.